cowichan valley + saturna
Each year, I aim to get in one solo multi-day adventure. It’s time to myself that I cherish, even with the nervousness and apprehension that can come with it. In recent years, these solo adventures have mainly been bikepacking excursions and in 2021, after putting travel plans on hold for the pandemic, I flew to Vancouver Island to ride the Cowichan Valley 8 route (and beyond). I’d been eager to explore some of the island by bike, after a few visits by car wondering what laid beyond the paved roads.
The Cowichan Valley 8 route is straightforward logistics-wise (especially with the help of Victoria’s bike-friendly airport, see below) and is pretty mellow, overall. Though the route takes the scenic way through Victoria, Shawnigan Lake, Duncan and Cowichan Lake, it’s never too far from civilization — and a coffee shop. Perfect for the vacation vibe I was going for.
I stretched the route out over some easy days, starting my ride directly from the airport to a camping spot in Brentwood Bay. It was a good launching point for the Mill Bay ferry the next morning. My days weren’t at all rushed, with leisurely breakfasts at camp, photo and “awe” breaks whenever the moment struck, and plenty of time to swim, read, and cook in the evenings. For my last night on route, I treated myself to a hotel where I happily indulged in fish tacos overlooking the Victoria harbour.
As with all trips of this kind, there were a few minor bumps in the road — no food resupply one day due to holiday closures, getting a little lost trying to find an off-grid farm I was to camp at, and a cougar apparently lurking near one of my camping spots. But, I’ve come to expect that most adventures have hurdles here and there, and these were pretty minor ones at that.
With the Cowichan Valley 8 route completed, I ventured onward to Saturna Island — one of the Southern Gulf Islands off the coast of Vancouver Island — for the final leg of my trip. Visiting a Gulf Island had been high on my list and I chose Saturna because I had read it offered up some of the best whale watching from land. I am a whale lover and couldn’t pass up the opportunity.
I spent my days on Saturna between my oceanfront campsite at Narvaez Bay and East Point, the spot to see whales. Specifically, I was hopeful to see an orca. Back in university, I spent time one summer volunteering for a whale research program on the North Shore of Quebec. It was, and remains, a life highlight. I got up close and personal with many whales and porpoises from belugas to minkes, humpbacks, and even a blue whale. And though I whale-watched in other areas in the years following, I had never been treated to an orca sighting. So, on Saturna, I was hopeful. Oh, so hopeful. I pulled up a Parks Canada red chair amongst the tall golden grass and began a dedicated watch of the sparkling blue ocean beyond. But, despite many hours logged, the orcas eluded me. It was hard to be disappointed though. Absorbing the beauty around me and acknowledging my gratitude for the experience of this trip, it was the perfect ending to my little solo getaway.
HIGHLIGHTS:
Victoria Airport - So bike-friendly! There is a covered bike station just outside the terminal for unpacking and building up one’s rig, complete with a storage shed for stashing bike boxes. I left my cardboard box in the unlocked shed while I was out riding and to my relief, it was exactly where I’d left it when I returned a week later to repack my bike and fly home. A very appreciated alternative to the usual post-trip bike box antics. There is a bike path directly into and out of the airport, too.
Kinsol Trestle - One of eight trestles along the Cowichan Valley Trail, Kinsol is the largest and most impressive. It’s one of the tallest free-standing timber trestles in the world and is pretty neat to ride over.
Stolz Pool Campground - Great campsite right next to a river, perfect for a dip after a hot day of riding.
Victoria - I really enjoyed the urban riding in and around bike-friendly Victoria with its extensive network of paths, trails and protected bike lanes. It was a fun way to explore more of the city.
Farms + farm stands galore
Saturna Island - small, quiet (just a general store), and mountainous
Highlights from instagram